This is an interesting little town. Definitely caught between two cultures and eras. Gallup, NM is in the northwest corner of NM, about 10 miles from the Arizona state line along I-40. The Navajo Nation lies against the northern city limits of the city and the Zuni Nation is about 20 miles southwest of town. Gallup was founded as a railroad community and was named after the paymaster for the railroad. The railroad is still a major function of this town.
When we arrived it appeared as many other southwestern towns, poor, rundown and desperately trying to pull on the tourism industry. Other than the railroad, I couldn't discern what industry was driving the economy here.
My boys quickly fell in love with this town. Despite it's meager appearance, it had so much culture to offer. This town is definitely stuck in the early 1900's when the railroad was important for trade. There are many Indian trade stores along the main street. We had much enjoyment perusing these stores. Every night during the summer in the Town Square (which was only 2 blocks from where we were staying) there were Indian dances. The dancers would dance, discussions of the meaning of the dances would be embedded in the dances. Indian musicians would play the drums and flutes. This was a highlight of our day. We would make every effort to attend the dances. It was amazing how the whole town and tourists would surround this square for one hour and cultures would mingle harmoniously. Definitely God working His magic!
My one son reminisces about how we could, and would, walk everywhere. It is definitely a walking community. Everyone walks everywhere. It is a small city and many places were easier to walk to than drive. My boys would walk up to the hospital and visit me for lunch or come at the end of the shift and we would drive home together. We walked to Mass at the Cathedral on Sunday mornings. We walked to the library, store, you name it, we walked there.
One of the places we would routinely walk to was to the train tracks. We would sit on the wall and watch the trains come through. We would count how many cars were being pulled. Some trains would come through town traveling fast, others slow. We would see Amtrak and the boys would beg me take them on a train ride. We would watch the light signals and wager which track the train would be on. I even laid a couple of quarters and pennies on the track and we watched the trains run over the coins. After the train passed we would go pick up the coins and it was amazing how the coins would be pressed, distorted and smooth. We enjoyed sitting and watching the trains. It was simple entertainment, and great family bonding time. We would wander our way back to the house. Sometimes stopping for ice cream or a soda.
Culturally, things were very different. The population of the town is roughly 1/3 European, 1/3 hispanic and 1/3 American Indian. The architecture, and art was Indian and southwestern. Alcoholism was very predominant and it was not unusual to see drunk persons wandering the streets during the day, evening or night. The American Indians are very friendly, spiritual people. They see beauty everywhere and I always loved to hear them talk about nature and their relationship with nature.
Mother Earth, the female rains, the desert bride and other endearments they gave to the land, weather, seasons and geography. I think it is something that most of us Americans have lost. We do not look out our windows and see the geography around us and consider it our "Mother." That like a mother, it nurtures, feeds, shelters and loves us. If we did, we wouldn't be so willing to plumage and pillage the Earth. I was always very envious of the Indians when they would speak of nature. Their eyes would become distant and dreamy as they spoke of the world around them. They have a spirituality and depth of love for this Earth that I have never seen before. I understand why they have resentment and anger towards the Europeans who settled their land and didn't understand the strong connection to the Earth that they have.
The terrain and geography of the southwest is amazing. We went to several National Monuments and National parks, such as Chaco Canyon, El Morro, Canyon De Chelley, Fire and Ice, Mesa Verde...
Annually in Gallup, is the Inter Tribal Ceremony. We were able to go and watch the dances and peruse the vendors. We saw Paul McCartney and his new girlfriend who happened to be driving through town and stopped to attend the Ceremony. We drove out to Window Rock, AZ (The Capital of the Navajo Nation) on National Code Talker day. There was a celebration and dances at the Window Rock (A sacred rock formation with a window in it) honoring the Navajo Code Talkers who served in WWII and were quite possibly the reason we won the War of the Pacific.
I also learned how the American Indians live in third world conditions. I was appalled at how the United States has this dirty little secret. We are so concerned about the third world countries and the poverty they experience and yet, right here within our own borders we have millions of people who live without running water, no electricity, cook over a wood fire, and use outhouses. I was amazed. We wouldn't tolerate this kind of poverty and neglect in any city.
Here in the wealthiest nation we have a subculture who we just sweep under the rug. They are out on the reservations, so what the heck? They are governed by tribal laws, yet local, state and federal governments impede any kind of progress which allows these persons to have these basic amenities. I still do not understand how and why these people allow this to happen to them. Other than they have been so mistreated by the Europeans (Americans) who settled this land and made them walk the "Trail of Tears" to these reservations and here they remain, attempting to remain "Persons of the Earth" while struggling to be an American and live as a western society.
They are a simple, peaceful, spiritual people. We have never incorporated them into our society. We put them out on the reservations and have essentially forgotten about them. Their culture is strong and it thrives despite what the rest of the United States does. When ever I hear an African American or Hispanic American speak of how mistreated they are in American society, I am angered. These ethnic groups do not face the challenges the American Indians do.
I have been blessed to have had the opportunity to work amongst these people and serve them providing them with healthcare. These people gave more to me, culturally, spiritually and respectfully than I ever could give them in a lifetime. The beautiful land and the beautiful people of the Navajo and Zuni Nations who taught me about my nations history, culture and most of all about humanity. God bless them all.
Agape,
Abigail
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